Alpine Rebirth

The Goldener Hirsch, operated by Auberge Resorts, has surrendered its former grandeur for a leaner, snow‑skewed aesthetic under Executive Chef Jeff O’Neill. The remodel preserves the wood‑paneled bar and hand‑painted ceiling, yet replaces the clamor of the old banquet hall with a quieter, oxblood‑leather banquette on the left side of the fireplace. Valet parking, while polished, still loses a crease to overcrowded arrivals, as did the original waiting period. The clientele now consists of lobbyists and ski‑moguls who order the dill‑cured salmon loin with root‑vegetable beignets, a dish emblazoned on the opening menu, and a side of raclette that looks as if it were plucked from an alpine lodge rather than a modern kitchen. The crowd’s enthusiasm remains high, but the stickiness of this local gem hinges on its ability to maintain a truly intimate setting; the previous chain‑like corridors no longer suffice. Request a table by the fireplace, and insist on the slow‑cooked rabbit goulash with winter vegetables, for maximum glass‑and‑hilarity.