The news of Rene Pulido’s R & K Brunch House extending its reach to Heber City, replacing the erstwhile Betty’s Cafe, arrived with a muted resonance. One appreciates a focused culinary vision – in this instance, a pronounced commitment to chilaquiles – yet the relentless pursuit of breakfast, even into the late afternoon, feels… earnest. The lack of a beverage program, save for the standard juice offerings, is a peculiarity. I recall a similar austerity at the original Spruce in New York; though there, it felt deliberate, a statement. Here, it feels simply… absent.
Apparently, the owner, Mr. Pulido, maintains a daily commute from Ogden. A dedicated man, certainly. One trusts the logistics are handled with precision; a disorganized brunch service is a truly regrettable spectacle. Reports indicate that Kenia Pulido, daughter and multi-hyphenate employee, assists in all capacities. Family operations have a certain charm, provided the charm doesn’t extend to uneven service. The interior, described as ‘cozy,’ undoubtedly involves a preponderance of beige tones, and one imagines the noise level to be, shall we say, engaged. Should you find yourself proximate, request a booth positioned symmetrically opposite the window. And order the chilaquiles divorciados, naturally. One must assess the baseline.